Climbing Urus / Ishinca / Alpamayo & Quitaraju 14 days
These two mountains are located in the Valley of Ishinca, This Program begins of a short aclimatization, to Urus and Ishinca and arriving at the base Camp from Alpamayo, and soon to promote this mountain of high difficulty, and after one day of reserve in Camp one of alpamayo, our second Summit is the mountain Quitaraju 6040mt. The most beautiful mountain in the world". One look at the southwest face of Alpamayo and any climber in the world would be interested in attempting to climb this remarkable peak
Day 1:Huaraz _ Pashpa _Base Camp Ishinca Camp at (4350mt)
Today we'll take private transport to the mouth of the Ishinca Valley and with the help of burros, travel to our base camp (4350mt) below Urus.
Day 2: Base Camp Ishinca _ Summit Urus (5420mt) _ Base Camp
Urus Summit Day! Your first alpine start has you leaving camp by 4:00am. Work your way up the steep moraine to the toe of the glacier where you'll put on crampons, harnesses, and rope up. Weave your way to the summit, usually arriving around 10am. Celebrate! Return down to base camp for a well-earned dinner and sleep!
Day 3: Base Camp Ishinca _ Summit Ishinca (5540mt) _ Base Camp
Ishinca Summit Day! Another Alpine start - 3:00am waking and leaving by4:00am. Ishinca's summit push is about 2 hours longer then Urus'. You'll pick your way through the delicate Andean tundra and gain the glacier around sunrise. Once on the glacier, wind your way through some impressive crevasses and up to the high saddle, then follow a summit ridge to the very top.
Day 4:Base Camp _ Pashpa _Return to Huaraz
We trek out to Collon and then return to Huaraz.Time to relax after the climbing and celebrate.
Day 5: Free day in Huaraz, and Preparations for Alpamayo & Quitaraju Climbing
Day 6: Huaraz _Cashapampa _Llamacorral Camp at (3750mt)
Drive to our trailhead in the village of Cashapampa (9,000 feet). This 3 hour drive takes us through beautiful farming communities as we head between the spines of the Cordillera Negra and the Cordillera Blanca. After organizing our burros, we hike with day packs to Llama Corral (3750mt), where we camp for the night.
Day 7: Llamacorral _Base Camp Alpamayo at (4200mt)
A fairly short day, about 2 at 3 hours with day packs. Basecamp is made at (4200mt) in a valley at the base of Alpamayo on the opposite side of the route. Basecamp is scenic, with greenery, running water and outhouses.
Day 8: Base Camp _Moraine Camp at (4600mt)
From base camp, the route takes a moraine ridge and crosses rock slabs across the edge of the glacier to reach an area of tent platforms (3 hours). This camping area is very limited and we may opt to climb all the way to Col camp in one day
Day 9: Moraine Camp _ Camp 1 Alpamayo at (5300mt)
The route above moraine camp continues over ice and moraine before a 300-metre snow couloir leads to the Col between Alpamayo and nearby Quitaraju (6,040m). This section can sometimes be the most technical and difficult part of the route. After gaining the col, there is a short descent to reach high camp.
Day 10: Camp 1 _ Summit Alpamayo (5947mt) _ Camp 1 at (5300mt)
Alpamayo Summit Day Depart from camp at 2:00am and head to the steep summit wall, which offers 360 meters of fun technical climbing to the summit.
Day 11: Extra day to climb Quitaraju or if needed for another summit day attempt.
Day 12: Summit Quitaraju (19, 820) Summit Day! If we have it in us, we will have the opportunity to attempt this second peak, which shares the same high camp as Alpamayo. A short trek across the glacier and we step onto the North Face. While the face is not quite as steep as Alpamayo, it is significantly longer. The route to the summit is often 12+ pitches of two-tool neve, with the upper pitches frequently consisting of soft sugar snow fins. Since we are in the Southern Hemisphere, this face gets early morning sun, and we will need to be descending before noon, back to our col camp.
Day 13: Camp 1_ Base Camp Alpamayo at (4200mt)
We may have descended the day before, if the ascents are made at the earliest opportunities. Otherwise, we will descend today, to base camp (6 hours), ready for the walk and return drive to Huaraz tomorrow.
Day 14: Base Camp _ Cashapampa Return to Huaraz
We make an early morning departure on our hike out. Again, with our heavy gear on burros we are able to enjoy the trek back to Cashapampa carrying only day packs. Normally we arrive out at the road in early afternoon and head back to Huaraz for a hot shower and a celebratory dinner