Climbing Yanapaccha 5497mt 3 days
The route begins to the right of a prominent rock buttress that extends a good ways up the face. Scramble up a bit of rock until the bottom of the glacier is gained. Head up the slope (maybe 50 degrees?) for approx. 800' or so to a flat area. From here traverse right through some crevassed territory to where the face steepens towards the summit. Work your way up and right towards a prominent crevasse. Cross this to gain the final headwall. Climb this calf burning headwall for about 160m and head right at the end to the summit.
Timing: 3 days / 2 nights
Season: May / September
Climbing Grade: Medium
Day 1: Huaraz _ Llanganuco _ Moraine Camp at (4800m.)
Private transport to km 45 of the Llanganuco valley, 3 hours walk to the camp.
Day 2: Moraine Camp _ Summit Yanapaccha (5497m) _ Moraine Camp.
Crossing crevasses, snow bridges, the last 150m is a beautiful wall of snow 50, 8 hours in total.
Day 3: Moraine Camp _ Huaraz
we returned along the same route and then we take our private van to Huaraz.