The most beautiful mountain in the world". One look at the southwest face of Alpamayo and any climber in the world would be interested in attempting to climb this remarkable peak.Wildly fluted faces combine with knife-edge ridges to form one of the most remarkable peaks in the world. Climbing Alpamayo, at an elevation of 19,512 feet, can be one of the highlights of an alpinist's career. Alpamayo Southwest Face offers 1,200ft.Of challenging alpine ice, much of it at 60 degrees or steeper.
Timing: 7 days / 6 nights
Season: May / August
Climbing Grade: Difficult / Technical
Day 1: Huaraz _Cashapampa _Llamacorral Camp at (3750mt)
Drive to our trailhead in the village of Cashapampa (9,000 feet). This 3 hour drive takes us through beautiful farming communities as we head between the spines of the Cordillera Negra and the Cordillera Blanca. After organizing our burros, we hike with day packs to Llama Corral (3750mt), where we camp for the night.
Day 2: Llamacorral _Base Camp Alpamayo at (4200mt)
A fairly short day, about 2 at 3 hours with day packs. Basecamp is made at (4200mt) in a valley at the base of Alpamayo on the opposite side of the route. Basecamp is scenic, with greenery, running water and outhouses.
Day 3: Base Camp _Moraine Camp at (4600mt)
From base camp, the route takes a moraine ridge and crosses rock slabs across the edge of the glacier to reach an area of tent platforms (3 hours). This camping area is very limited and we may opt to climb all the way to Col camp in one day.
Day 4: Moraine Camp _ Camp 1 Alpamayo at (5300mt)
The route above moraine camp continues over ice and moraine before a 300-metre snow couloir leads to the Col between Alpamayo and nearby Quitaraju (6,040m). This section can sometimes be the most technical and difficult part of the route. After gaining the col, there is a short descent to reach high camp.
Day 5: Camp 1 _ Summit Alpamayo (5947mt) _ Camp at (5300mt)
Alpamayo Summit Day Depart from camp at 2:00am and head to the steep summit wall, which offers 360 meters of fun technical climbing to the summit.
Day 6: Camp 1_ Base Camp Alpamayo at (4200mt)
We may have descended the day before, if the ascents are made at the earliest opportunities. Otherwise, we will descend today, to base camp (6 hours), ready for the walk and return drive to Huaraz tomorrow.
Day 7: Base Camp _ Cashapampa Return to Huaraz
We trek out to Cashapampa and then return to Huaraz.Time to relax after the climbing and celebrate.